Kenya: Stories and Pictures: Segment I

Thank you for your warm response to my story about the Rays of Hope Clinic and your generous giving. I so appreciate your support. I have now begun learning how to write a grant proposal and am researching what companies, corporations, non-profits, etc. might be likely places to send my request, once I figure out how to write it! Any help anyone can give me regarding where to send the proposals would be an enormous help. I am really a novice at this, but am determined to do what I can. In the meantime, I would love to share with you more about the trip to Kenya.
I will be posting the full story, but I will do it in segments.
The first segment tells of our visit to the Maasai Mara area of Kenya where we stayed at Kicheche Bush Camp in the Olare Orak Conservancy. All of the places we stayed were "off the beaten track" and I never saw tour groups at all.

SEGMENT I

MAASAI MARA: July 2012

I am writing of the immensely exciting experiences I’ve moved through in the last three weeks, though they feel as elusive as a leopard when I reach to capture them in words…

However, with the patience borrowed from the cheetah stalking its prey, I will stay with it!

Traveling from one side of the world to the other was surreal and challenging, taking its toll on my physical body and calling upon my inner resources to remain grounded and calm in the midst of what often appeared as mad chaos. At the same time I was astounded at how efficiently that chaos is managed, and that the entire global system of travel works as well as it does. Glitches occur, but probably statistically, considering the numbers of people traveling, they are few. Our trip was enhanced immeasurably by flying Business or First class most of the way, plus we had assistance at most airports to help us to manage the walking, etc. I had hurt my knee before the trip, and Maureen did not have the physical strength to manage long walks. After I got over my feeling of embarrassment about needing help, I was grateful for it! Both directions were accomplished beautifully, with only one cancelled flight, which then caused our bags to not arrive at the end of the trip. Jet lag and sleep deprivation at the end of the trip were the only real problems I encountered.

To Kicheche: Maasai Mara (5,000ft.)

Olare Orok Conservancy (60,000 acres)

After our arrival in Nairobi we stayed overnight at a lovely historic hotel which, according to our driver, was the safest in the city as it was next door to the Israeli Embassy which has a high level of security all around it. The next morning we boarded a small Air Kenya aircraft, and were told we should disembark at the 3^rd stop. As the names were unintelligible to me, I kept careful count. All our landings after leaving Nairobi were on dirt runways. Disembarking we were met by our Maasai guide, climbed in the Safari Vehicle that would become our second home for weeks and began the first hour of many to come on the roughest dirt roads I’ve ever traveled in my life (and I’ve traveled a lot of them!!)

I was immediately thrilled, felt my adrenaline rising and my heart filling with delight. The first animal I saw was a warthog! They are quite common, and quite comical as they move through the grasses with their tails bobbing straight up in the grass like little antennae. We were headed to Kicheche, a bush camp in a Conservancy of 32,000 acres in the Masai Mara. The Masai Mara area is connected to the Serengeti in Tanzania, but no one is allowed to cross into it without permission. In this first hour’s drive I saw elephants, zebra, several kinds of antelope, ostrich and much more. Arriving at Kicheche we were met by our delightful hosts, Darren and Emma. Heavy duty tent construction, running water, flush toilets, a mess tent, 12 guests maximum all in the middle of a wilderness of immense proportions. This camp could be completely taken down in a week, so is not absolutely permanent, but serves as such. It was very comfortable, with delicious food, game drives all morning with breakfast, and “Sundowners” after tea at 4:30 until 7PM, followed by dinner at 8PM.

Breathing in grasses,

greens, yellows

billowing, flowing…

short, cropped

giraffe sculpted trees

further dwarfed by 
the destruction

of elephants feeding…

Do they grow back?

Antelope, ostrich, zebra

elephants abound…

Then she appears,

the fading evening light

following her lean, powerful,

confident journey through

the grasses...

A leopard leisurely lures

us onward until we

all disappear into the night.

The days were full, with any expectations I may have had being obliterated by the reality of each moment. Nothing could be predicted, with every moment holding the possibility of a surprise. I became alert and ready, poised to see everything I possibly could, fully present, filled with joy and the energy of life itself. Nature is everywhere present showing herself in all her glory, in the life/death/life cycles, in the land, in the weather, and in the activities of the wild ones. I feel the similarities to a “vision quest” deep inside, and know that I will one day understand more of what that means for me. Being in the unfamiliar, out of my comfort zone, with difficult challenges coming in traveling with someone, meeting new people, on my own…all are there for me to learn, to see myself in that mirror and deepen my knowledge of myself.

I’ve become aware since I returned from the trip that part of the reason I was so affected by the land and its people was the fact that it isn’t a highly developed country, that its wild lands are being cared for and respected now in such tangible and successful ways, and that there is an appreciation for wilderness and for animals. These are things that mean a lot to me. It’s where I put my attention in my own life. My heart and soul were captured by the bush, the people and the experience of being so close to the basic realities of life, death and survival, seeing in that what we have lost in our highly developed materially oriented world. We no longer see or understand the interconnectedness, the oneness, the beauty and necessity of acknowledging the natural world, of respecting wilderness and protecting wildlife. The people of Kenya were wonderful, with open hearts and sincere in their efforts to please.

Just me and a Maasai

guide, not warrior

with hippo chorus

breakfast in the African sun

cheetahs running across the horizon…

And we followed them, as they ran through the grasses, watched as they climbed up on termite mounds in order to see better, drove very near, hearing their shrill barking sounds indicating agitation, which, according to “Nelson,” might be due to a lion being nearby or that they are looking for a female. None of the animals were disturbed by our vehicle, having seen them since they were born and having no fear of them. No one was to ever get out of the vehicles, however, as then we might be seen as prey.

Topi, only in the Mara, are plentiful. (sloped back)

Wildebeast, and Thompson Gazelle (black strip, smaller, constantly moving tail)

Grand Gazelle, lions, giraffe, vulture, eagle, cheetahs, boomslug (poisoness snake, bright green)

Ostrich, wart hogs, black backed jackal, Impala (males have horns)

During an afternoon ride with James, we spotted a leopard up in a tree. She leapt with infinite grace from the tree and we followed her to where she had hidden a previous kill. She began to drag the carcass, easily more than her own weight, and we followed. Slowly, more and more exhausted, she moved through the grasses. A hyenna lurked nearby, watching, lusting after the kill perhaps. We felt the unfolding of a drama, as the leopard climbed a tree and looked around, quite obviously determining how to get the carcass up into the tree to protect it. Darkness was coming and we soon had to leave. The next day we returned, found her, and her cub, now in the large tree where we originally had seen her. The carcass was safely stowed in the branches. We saw that the hindquarters of the wildebeest had been ripped off, and we wondered if the hyenna had been able to grab it as she hauled it through the night. There seemed to be plenty left for her and her cub. Then, to the sounds of cracking bones, we watched them take turns filling themselves, rest, their limbs hanging loosely from the branches, and then return for more.

Eventually they moved to a nearby creek bed for what appeared to be some play time, and we sat nearby drinking our tea….a bit surreal for sure.

Another day, while following 3 male cheetahs out looking for prey, I feel my own deep survival/hunting instinct surfacing as I watched the careful, stealthy, slow creep through the grass of the lead cheetah as he headed for an impala grazing ahead. Knowing exactly when he would reach the right distance to begin his final sprint, he slowly moved forward. I held my breath, knowing these animals needed food and that another animal would die to provide it. Meanwhile, a topi nearby raised his head, apparently having sensed or seen the cheetah. His warning sound alerted the impala. Both move away and the cheetah’s kill is thwarted. The 3 brothers then move under a tree for a rest…

Three cheetahs single minded 
Search stealthily stalking impala

Lying low in green yellow cover

Maasai plains grasses eons of silent

Regeneration now bearing eternal witness

Grazers now prey in the ongoing cycle of life

Now thwarted by a topi warning, the “three boys” rest

And I wait…

Eating my muselli silence surreal no stalking no searching no killing no rush nothing to do but wait…

For three cheetahs to wake…

And they sleep…

Bush Lessons:

*There can be no hurry here; you must wait to find what you seek…

*Only in silence will you hear what you must…

*The life/death/life cycle is all there is to know, and we are one with it as are all life forms…

*Sitting and waiting, nothing and everything will happen; nothing and everything will be revealed…

*In not speaking, I uncover deeper truths inside; like the kudu, I hold stillness in the night…

*In speaking, with conscious awareness, I set myself free and fly like an eagle…

*All life is interconnected. In the bush it is clear and respected. In most of our lives it is hidden and ignored.

Here is the slideshow to accompany this story:
The adjustments are in the upper right.
Set speed on SLOW, and click "SHOW INFO" to see captions.

http://www.flickr.com//photos/87229554@N05/sets/72157631609230841/show/

END OF SEGMENT I
Segment II will be posted soon.

RAYS OF HOPE CLINIC...Githongo, Kenya

Here goes...my first post! While this is a bit different than what I intend for my blog, right now I can't imagine anything more important than to tell you this story.

In July, I accompanied my friend, Maureen, on what was, for her, a return trip to Kenya. For almost three weeks we experienced a magical time in that amazing and beautiful country. The contrasts, challenges, wildlife and people all together presented an extraordinary panorama. Maureen has traveled to the African continent many times over the years, but this trip held a special poignancy in that she is seriously ill. Her dearest wish has been to return to Africa before she can no longer travel. When she proposed the idea to me, I knew I would be there with her.

 

I will write of the animals I saw, the people I met and our adventures in another posting.



 
Now I write to share with you the highlight of the trip, and to ask for your consideration of a request.

Seven years ago Maureen volunteered at a Conservancy in Kenya where she met a young 
man, Murithi, who told her of his great desire to help the people of his home village by providing basic health care, basic medical testing and health education. She helped to fund his training as a health practitioner, and then provided funds which enabled him to open his small community clinic in 2009. Visiting the Clinic and seeing Murithi was a major goal of this return visit to Kenya.

We stayed at the Conservancy, Lewa Downs, and we were driven to Murithi's village. After a fascinating trip with glimpses into the lives of people along the way in the towns, the farms, and the villages of the Meru District in central Kenya, we arrived at the small, rural, mountainous village of Githongo, near the base of Mt. Kenya. We were welcomed as royalty, with Murithi and his entire extended family there to greet us. Their huge smiles, open arms, songs and joyous greetings enveloped us both.

Everyone was dressed in their Sunday best, and our first stop was church. We attended a two hour service, remarkable in that their faith and the importance it holds in their lives was palatable in this service where even the smallest child sat quietly and respectfully throughout! (Of course, staring at us was probably a welcome distraction!)

 A Methodist service in Swahili, with some English for our benefit, caught me up in the cadence of the drums, the chanting, singing and the surprising familiarity. The importance of the church in their lives was apparent, and I was told that it was this that carried them through the difficulties and struggles of their lives. We were introduced, and asked to say a few words, which Murithi translated. The community expressed their delight to Maureen, knowing how important she was to the establishment of their clinic.

Next we walked to see the Clinic nearby. In a few rooms in a small, simple structure Murithi and his assistants proudly demonstrated their equipment and explained what they do.
With full time work by Murithi, and a part-time staff of a nurse, laboratory technician and community facilitator, they provide:

• laboratory services for malaria and typhoid
• disbursement of medicines and drugs
• testing and post test counseling for HIV/AIDS
• maternal, prenatal and child health care
• community health education
• house calls for those unable to travel to the clinic

ALL of these services are provided at NO cost or for a minimal fee. The truth is that few can afford to pay anything at all. While the goal of the Clinic is to provide even more services, the truth is that the present situation is one of increasing debt and no steady income. They receive no help from the local or the Kenyan government. All funds come from private donor contributions, which are difficult to find and are usually no more than a single donation, not a regular source. Murithi is struggling constantly to pay for the most basic costs...i.e. rent, electricity and the salaries for his staff and himself

A large part of their work is to increase awareness and education about HIV/AIDS. Many in Kenya are not being reached with prevention and treatment services. Murithi has large posters communicating the important concepts, often to people who do not read or speak much English. He recently has been in touch with "Translators without Borders" who may be able to help, and he needs funds to create brochures himself in Swahili. There are still cultural blocks to the effort to reach people with the facts about HIV/AIDS, which education has still not broken through.

Soon we were visiting Murithi's home, where members of his family live in close proximity to each other, sharing in a garden and food preparation. His mother provided simple food for us and, while Maureen met with Murithi and others to talk about the future of the Clinic, I sat nearby and painted a watercolor of "Mama's" house. When she saw what I was doing, she showed me more....the tiny cooking area with open fire, her small sleeping area, the sitting area, one cow, one goat, chickens and the garden.

"Mama" raises tea plants for income, they live simply and are grateful for all they do have. Some of the younger family members have jobs outside the village, and everyone is very close. What I noticed is how much they lack that we Westerners would consider critical to our survival.....most of which they don't even miss, EXCEPT basic health care!

Before we departed, Murithi took us on a "home care" visit to woman who had had a stroke. She was curled up in a dirty blanket on a couch in a small room with a dirt floor, no windows, an open fire and little air. Her husband was nearby, and a cow was outside the door. Murithi's assistant stayed behind to provide whatever care she could.

These people are typical of the many who cannot get to the Clinic and who have no funds to pay for any of the services they receive. Others, who line up every day, are without funds to pay for services, other than to bring some food perhaps.

Since we have returned, Maureen's condition has become worse, and she is unable to continue her work  helping the clinic reach funding sources. She is very worried about how it will survive. And it is certainly true that Murithi needs a secure funding source in order to survive over the long haul.

I am stepping in to tell this story, and to make an appeal for help to assist with the immediate needs of Rays of Hope Community Clinic.

I deeply appreciate and thank you in advance for anything you can give, and would also welcome any thoughts you might have as to how more secure, long term funding might be found. Murithi and his supporters in Githongo are not experienced in writing grant proposals and do not have large networks outside the village.

When I think of the needs in this world and how many there are who need this kind of help, it is overwhelming. I have to wonder how something this small will survive. And yet, when I remember the faith shining in the faces of Murithi and his family and friends, remember their heartfelt determination to help their people and remember the great need that surrounds them, I know that this is what matters in the world. These efforts are of importance and of value. Because I was privileged to enter into their lives for just one day, I believe I must respond to their situation. 

Murithi has reported to me that his monthly expenses are US$1675, and that he owes US$5,025 in bills and salaries.

Thank you from the bottom of my heart. You have my deepest gratitude for reading this far, and for anything you can do to help.

The link below will take you directly to the site of Children Of Strength, which is the organization that has agreed to handle donations for the Rays of Hope Clinic. They have a 501 (c) (3) standing as a tax exempt non profit. They are not charging any fees for managing and forwarding donations to the Rays of Hope Clinic.

Be sure you are designating Rays of Hope specifically on the Donation page.

Donate Here

             We are most grateful.